How to Change a Spare Tire on a Car – Step-by-Step Guide

How to Change a Spare Tire on a Car

Last Updated on January 2, 2026

I was halfway through a weekend drive when that familiar thud-thud-thud hit—followed by the slow, sinking feeling that the tire wasn’t going to make it another mile. I pulled over, stepped out, and there it was: a flat that looked like it had given up on life entirely.

Moments like that are exactly why I learned how to change a spare tire on a car the hard way—sweaty palms, dirt on my jeans, and tools scattered everywhere on the shoulder.

It’s stressful, sure, but it doesn’t have to be chaos. Knowing how to swap a tire safely saves your rim, your wallet, and your nerves—especially when help isn’t nearby.

And once you’ve done it a couple of times, it becomes one of those simple, confidence-boosting skills every driver should have. So if you ever end up staring at a flat like I did, wondering what to do next… stick with me.

How to Change a Spare Tire on a Car

Image by universityfordnorth

What a Spare Tire Is and Why It Matters

A spare tire is that extra wheel tucked away in your trunk, under the car, or sometimes mounted on the back of SUVs and trucks. There are a few types out there – the full-size spare, which matches your regular tires and lets you drive normally, and the more common “donut” spare, a compact temporary tire that’s skinnier and meant for short distances only, usually up to 50-70 miles at reduced speeds like 50 mph max.

Why does this matter? In the US, where road trips can stretch across states with spotty cell service, a flat tire isn’t just inconvenient – it can be dangerous if you’re stranded in bad weather or at night.

From my experience, ignoring your spare is like forgetting your emergency kit. I’ve seen cars come into the shop with spares that were flat themselves or so old the rubber was cracked and useless. It’s all about safety and longevity; a quick swap can prevent rim damage or worse, like losing control on the highway.

Plus, with rising costs for roadside assistance – AAA memberships aren’t cheap – knowing this skill saves you money. Think of it as insurance you can do yourself.

Tools and Products You’ll Need

Before you dive in, gather your gear. Most cars come with the essentials in a kit under the trunk floor, but I’ve learned the hard way that not all kits are created equal. You’ll need a jack – that’s the lifting device, usually a scissor or bottle jack.

Then there’s the lug wrench, a cross-shaped tool for loosening those wheel nuts. Of course, the spare tire itself, and don’t forget the wheel chocks or blocks to keep the car from rolling.

Safety first: Grab gloves to protect your hands from grime and sharp edges, a flashlight if it’s dark (LED ones are lifesavers), and reflective triangles or flares for visibility on the road. I always recommend a tire pressure gauge too – those donuts need to be inflated to spec, often around 60 PSI. If your car’s kit is missing something, hit up an auto parts store like AutoZone for a basic roadside kit under $50.

Pro tip from the garage: Invest in a hydraulic floor jack if you do this often; it’s easier on your back than the flimsy stock one.

In colder US climates like the Northeast, where snow and ice make roads slick, add a blanket or knee pads to your list – kneeling on frozen ground is no joke. And for those in sunny California, a hat and water bottle go a long way to avoid heat exhaustion during the process.

Step-by-Step Process to Change Your Spare Tire

I’m walking you through this like we’re in my garage, tools scattered on the workbench. Remember, pull over to a safe, flat spot first – away from traffic. Turn on your hazard lights and set up those reflective triangles about 100 feet behind your car. If you’re on a busy interstate, call for help if it feels unsafe; no tire is worth risking your life.

Step 1: Loosen the lug nuts. Before jacking up the car, use your lug wrench to turn each nut counterclockwise about a half-turn. They can be tight – I’ve busted knuckles on rusted ones – so put your weight into it. Don’t remove them yet; just break the seal while the wheel is still on the ground for leverage.

Step 2: Position the jack. Check your owner’s manual for the exact lift points – usually reinforced spots under the frame near the wheel. Slide the jack under there and start cranking or pumping until the tire is just off the ground, about an inch.

Safety note: Never get under the car while it’s on the jack alone; use jack stands if you’re doing more work, but for a quick swap, stay clear.

Step 3: Remove the flat tire. Now fully unscrew the lug nuts (keep them in your pocket or a magnetic tray – I’ve lost count of how many rolled away on me). Pull the wheel straight toward you; it might be stuck, so give it a gentle kick at the bottom while holding the top.

Step 4: Mount the spare. Line up the spare’s holes with the wheel studs and push it on. Hand-tighten the lug nuts as much as you can, then snug them with the wrench in a star pattern – top, bottom, left, right – to ensure even pressure.

Step 5: Lower the car and tighten. Slowly lower the jack until the tire touches the ground, then torque those lugs to spec (usually 80-100 ft-lbs; use a torque wrench if you have one). Fully lower and remove the jack.

Step 6: Check and store. Inflate the spare if needed, stow the flat in the trunk, and drive cautiously to a tire shop for a proper fix. The whole thing should take 15-30 minutes once you’re practiced.

Throughout, wear those gloves – road grime is nasty, and sharp wheel edges can cut. If it’s raining, like during those Midwest storms I’ve weathered, work quickly but carefully to avoid slips.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Where do I start? One biggie is jacking up the car before loosening the lugs – the wheel spins freely in the air, making it impossible. I did that my first time on a buddy’s Chevy pickup, and we wasted 20 minutes figuring it out. Always loosen on the ground.

Another: Forgetting to chock the opposite wheels. If you’re changing the front left, block the rear right with a rock or wood. Cars can roll, especially on slight inclines – trust me, I’ve chased a rolling sedan down a driveway.

Over-tightening lugs is common too; it warps rotors or strips threads. Use that star pattern and check torque. And don’t drive far on a donut – I’ve seen folks limp 100 miles and ruin the spare, leading to bigger bills.

Lastly, ignoring the spare’s condition. Check it monthly for air pressure; a flat spare is useless. In hot Arizona summers, heat can degrade rubber faster, so inspect for cracks.

Pro Tips from My Own Garage Experience

After years in the shop, I’ve got some secrets. For stubborn lugs, spray WD-40 and let it sit – works wonders on salted winter roads in the Rust Belt. If your jack is cranky, lubricate the threads annually.

Personal story: On a ’98 Honda Civic I was restoring, the spare was buried under junk in the trunk. Now I keep trunks organized with bins – saves time in emergencies. For women or smaller folks (like my wife, who’s nailed this process), use a breaker bar for extra leverage on tight nuts.

In performance cars like Mustangs I’ve tuned, spares are often space-savers; know your limits and avoid high speeds. And here’s a hack: Carry a portable air compressor that plugs into your cigarette lighter – under $30 on Amazon, and it’s saved me on long hauls.

For electric vehicles like Teslas popping up everywhere, some don’t even have spares – rely on run-flats or kits. If yours does, disconnect the battery first for safety, as I’ve learned from hybrid repairs.

DIY vs. Professional Service – Which Is Better?

For a simple tire change, DIY all the way – it’s empowering and cheap. I’ve taught dozens of friends in my driveway, and they beam with pride after. But if the flat’s from a blowout or you’re unsure about the jack points (common on luxury imports like BMWs), call a pro. Roadside services like AAA charge $50-100 but handle it safely.

Professionals have better tools, like impact wrenches for speedy work, and can inspect for other issues like alignment problems that caused the flat. In urban areas like NYC, where parking’s a nightmare, DIY might not be feasible – pros come to you.

That said, if you’re a beginner, start with DIY in a safe spot like your garage. Build confidence; I’ve gone from fumbling apprentice to leading shop teams by practicing these basics.

Maintenance Tips to Prevent Future Problems

Prevention beats cure every time. Rotate tires every 5,000-8,000 miles – evens wear and spots issues early. I’ve caught nails during rotations that could’ve led to flats.

Keep tires inflated to the door-jamb sticker specs; underinflation causes blowouts, especially in hot US summers. Use a digital gauge weekly.

Avoid potholes – they’re tire killers in cities like Chicago. And clean wheels regularly; brake dust corrodes rims over time.

For all-seasons in snowy states, switch to winters – better grip reduces flat risks from skids. Lastly, align wheels annually; misalignment chews tires unevenly.

Conclusion

Changing a spare tire on a car boils down to preparation, safety, and steady steps – loosen, jack, swap, tighten, and check. You’ve got the power to handle flats without panic, saving time and cash while staying safe. Remember my early blunder? It taught me respect for the process, and now I pass that on.

Upgrade to a full-size spare if space allows; donuts are fine temporarily, but nothing beats matching traction. Drive safe out there – your car’s counting on you.

FAQ

How often should I check my spare tire?
Check it monthly for proper inflation and condition. I’ve seen spares go unused for years only to fail when needed – a quick glance prevents that headache.

Can I drive long distances on a donut spare?
No, stick to 50-70 miles at reduced speeds. I once pushed one too far on a road trip and ended up with a shredded mess; get the flat repaired ASAP.

What if my car doesn’t have a spare tire?
Many modern cars use tire repair kits or run-flats instead. Practice with the kit at home – I’ve fixed punctures with them in the shop, but they’re not foolproof for big damage.

How do I know if my jack is safe to use?
Inspect for rust or damage before each use. If it’s bent or leaks (for hydraulics), replace it – safety’s non-negotiable, as I’ve learned from shop accidents.

Should I rotate my spare tire into regular use?
Yes, for full-size spares, include it in rotations to keep rubber fresh. Donuts? Keep them as emergencies only – they’re not built for daily driving.

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